Evening Coat and Dress Ensemble, ca. 1910-15
acid candy pop victorian
We have tons of these kinda houses in my town and the are just really awesome, the houses are actually classified as “Painted Ladies” and the are probably some of the best examples of Asymmetrical, non linear architecture ever created
I’m just thinking Blue reprinted Fosters.
Last time in this series, I finished making the linen dress to go underneath this. If you didn’t get a chance to see it, it can be found here.
Because I spent so little on the last piece of this costume (all I bought for it was the fake linen and the Pearl), I was able to justify splurging a bit here. And I most definitely did splurge. The cloak is made out of dark green velvet that I got from a retailer on Etsy.
I couldn’t buy a whole lot of fabric, so I needed to make what I had count. Because of that, I made the hood first, so that I could use the rest of the fabric for the actual cape part.
I didn’t want to screw up such nice fabric, so the first thing that I did was make a mockup out of some cotton I found in the remnant bin at Joann. The style of hood that I decided on was a half circle, which was not only in period but also insanely easy to make.
When I gathered it up and tried it on, I was surprised at how well it draped. It did feel a little smaller than I wanted, but that was something that could easily be fixed in the velvet piece.
The next thing that I did was cut out the half circle pattern from both the velvet and the lining fabric (which also came from the Joann remnant bin). I cleaned up the edge and used the rest (minus about four inches off the bottom) as the body of the cloak.
I used the same style of hem for the cloak as I did for the dress. I rolled each edge over twice and mitered the corners. However, this time I didn’t use a satin stitch.
At this point, I also sewed the straight sides of the half circles together, folded them right sides out, and topstitched. Then, it was time to gather.
Since these had to be gathered (or rather pleated) down so much, I didn’t want to just attach them to each other. Instead, I cut two pieces of black satin ribbon to the proper length and used them as a base to pleat against.
I am completely positive that there is a more elegant and proper way to do this, but it worked well enough that I don’t care at the moment. I may revisit this when I have more experience to change it, though.
After that, all I needed to do was add a tie at the front. For that, I took thinner satin ribbon in an olive color and twisted it until it curled up into nice little ties.
And that’s that. The ribbon was secured with a few more lines of stitching, and then it was on to the dress form for pictures.
Next time in this series, I’ll be posting about making a set of stays to wear underneath this. Until then, I bid you adieu.
Love it, it’s beautiful.
Elie Saab fall 2014/15 - detail
It’s all in the details…
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall 2014